14-Inch vs 17-Inch Bandsaw – Which Size Do You Need?

The bandsaw size debate comes down to one question: what do you actually need to do? A 14-inch saw handles 90% of general woodworking tasks competently. A 17-inch saw opens doors to serious resawing and larger curved work. Understanding the real differences helps you make the right choice for your shop.

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Understanding Bandsaw Sizing

Bandsaw size refers to the wheel diameter, which determines throat capacity. A 14-inch bandsaw cuts material up to roughly 13-1/2 inches wide. A 17-inch saw cuts up to about 16-1/2 inches wide. That extra 3 inches of throat capacity matters more than you might think.

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Resaw capacity is the second critical measurement. This is how tall a piece you can stand on edge and slice into thinner boards. Entry-level 14-inch saws often limit you to 6 inches. Quality 14-inch saws with riser blocks add 6 more inches for 12 inches total. Most 17-inch saws start at 12 inches and can extend to 16 with riser blocks.

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Resawing Reality Check

Resawing demands power, blade tension, and stability. A 1-HP motor on a 14-inch saw will struggle to resaw 8-inch wide hardwood. The blade wanders, the motor heats up, and you’re left with wavy cuts that require excessive cleanup.

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Move to a quality 17-inch saw with 2+ HP and a proper resaw blade (1/2″ minimum, 3/4″ preferred), and the same cut becomes controlled and predictable. The larger wheels reduce blade fatigue and allow proper tensioning of wide blades.

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If resawing is occasional and limited to boards under 6 inches, a 14-inch saw handles it adequately. If you’re producing your own veneer, slicing thick slabs, or regularly processing 10″+ material, the 17-inch saw is the right choice.

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Curved Cutting Considerations

For curved cuts, smaller blades track tighter radii. Both saw sizes accept blades down to 1/8″ wide for intricate scroll work. The difference is in the coasting distance and blade tracking.

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Larger wheels create longer unsupported blade runs, which can cause vibration with narrow blades. Quality 17-inch saws include blade guides positioned close to the work to minimize this issue. Test-drive before buying if tight curves are your primary work.

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Most general curve cutting uses 1/4″ or 3/8″ blades where both saw sizes perform equally well.

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Setup Requirements

A 14-inch bandsaw weighs 200-300 pounds and fits through standard doorways. A 17-inch saw weighs 350-500 pounds and may require disassembly to move. Plan your shop layout before the saw arrives.

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Both sizes need solid, level placement with minimal vibration. Mobile bases work well for 14-inch saws. For 17-inch saws, use heavy-duty bases rated for the load, and consider bolting to the floor for maximum stability during resawing.

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Dust collection connects to a 4-inch port on most quality saws. The 17-inch saw produces more chips during resawing and benefits from a more powerful dust collection system.

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Blade Selection and Cost

Blades for 14-inch saws cost $15-35 each. Blades for 17-inch saws cost $25-50 each. The length difference adds up over time, especially if you’re buying quality blades and replacing them appropriately.

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Keep three blades on hand for each saw: a narrow blade (1/8″ or 3/16″) for tight curves, a general-purpose blade (3/8″ or 1/2″) for most work, and a resaw blade (1/2″ or 3/4″) for slicing thick stock.

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The Fence Question

Factory fences on most bandsaws are inadequate. Budget for an aftermarket fence regardless of which size you buy. Kreg, Laguna, and Carter all make quality bolt-on fences that transform resawing accuracy.

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A proper fence includes micro-adjustment, positive locking, and the ability to account for blade drift. This is not optional equipment for serious resawing work.

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My Recommendation

For general woodworking, furniture making, and occasional resawing of material under 8 inches: a quality 14-inch bandsaw with 1+ HP delivers excellent value.

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For serious resawing, processing thick slabs, cutting large curved components, or production work: invest in a 17-inch saw with 2+ HP. The capability difference is substantial, and you won’t outgrow it.

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Whatever you choose, spend more on the saw itself and less on accessories initially. A quality base machine with a good fence and proper blades outperforms a lesser saw buried in gadgets.

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David Chen

David Chen

Author & Expert

David Chen is a professional woodworker and furniture maker with over 15 years of experience in fine joinery and custom cabinetry. He trained under master craftsmen in traditional Japanese and European woodworking techniques and operates a small workshop in the Pacific Northwest. David holds certifications from the Furniture Society and regularly teaches woodworking classes at local community colleges. His work has been featured in Fine Woodworking Magazine and Popular Woodworking.

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