Understanding Sandpaper for Drywall: A Comprehensive Guide
Drywall finishing has gotten complicated with all the conflicting advice floating around online. As someone who has mudded and taped more walls than I can count over the past 15 years, I learned everything there is to know about sandpaper the hard way. Today, I will share it all with you.
Types of Sandpaper Used in Drywall Work
Here’s where most people get tripped up right at the start. There are three main options for sanding drywall, and picking the wrong one can turn a weekend project into a week-long nightmare.
- Regular Sandpaper Sheets
- Sanding Sponges
- Sanding Screens
Regular sandpaper sheets are what most folks grab first. They’re cheap and you probably already have some in a drawer somewhere. Sanding sponges? Those are my secret weapon for corners and rounded edges. The flexibility means you can actually get into spaces that would drive you crazy with flat sandpaper. And sanding screens – well, these are specifically designed for drywall dust, which clogs regular paper faster than you’d believe.
Understanding Grit Numbers
Probably should have led with this section, honestly. The grit number tells you how aggressive your sandpaper is. Lower numbers mean coarser paper that removes material fast. Higher numbers give you that smooth-as-glass finish.
- 24-36 Grit: Extremely coarse – takes material off fast, almost too fast for drywall
- 40-60 Grit: Coarse, good for shaping and removing thick layers
- 80-120 Grit: Medium – this is your workhorse for most drywall sanding
- 150-180 Grit: Fine, perfect for that final pass before primer
- 220+ Grit: Extra fine, for when you need absolute perfection
I’m apparently one of those people who obsesses over wall finish, and 100 grit works great for me while 80 grit never quite cuts it. Most pros start around 100 or 120, then move up to 150 or 180 for the final pass. That progression matters more than any single grit choice.
When to Use Sanding Screens
Sanding screens changed my life. I know that sounds dramatic for a sanding product, but hear me out.
These open-mesh screens resist clogging in a way regular paper just cannot match. When you’re sanding fresh joint compound, you’re generating mountains of fine white dust. Regular sandpaper fills up and becomes useless within minutes. Screens keep cutting. Both sides work, so you can flip them over and keep going. And they attach to pole sanders for ceilings, which saves your arms and your sanity.
Using Sponge Sanders
That’s what makes sponge sanders endearing to us DIYers – they bend where you need them to bend. Corners that would take forever with flat sandpaper? Sponges handle them in seconds. Around electrical boxes and fixtures? Same deal.
Here’s a bonus: you can rinse sponge sanders out and reuse them. Let them dry overnight and they’re good to go again. I’ve had some last through three or four rooms before they finally gave out. Not bad for something that costs a few bucks.
All About Sanding Techniques
Okay, real talk: technique matters more than the sandpaper you pick. I’ve watched people destroy perfectly good drywall with expensive sanding screens because they didn’t understand pressure and motion.
- Use light pressure. Let the abrasive do the work – if you’re pressing hard, you’re probably gouging.
- Circular motion or light strokes, working systematically. Don’t just attack randomly.
- Watch the edges of your mud. Over-sanding there creates dips you’ll see forever.
- Check your work in raking light. Hold a trouble light at an angle and shadows reveal every flaw.
- Wear a dust mask. Seriously. Drywall dust is nasty and it gets everywhere.
Vertical strokes work great for flat seams. Circular motions are better around patches. It takes a few walls to get the feel, but once you do, the muscle memory kicks in.
Choosing the Right Tool for Sanding
Beyond the sandpaper itself, the tool you mount it on makes a real difference:
- Pole Sanders: important for ceilings and tall walls. Your neck and shoulders will thank you.
- Hand Sanders: Better control for detail work, small patches, tight spaces.
- Electric Sanders: Speeds up big jobs significantly, but be careful – they can remove material fast.
I keep all three around and switch based on what I’m tackling. A pole sander for the bulk work, hand sander for touchups, and electric for when I’m just done with a project and need to move fast.
Additional Tips for Best Results
Some things I’ve learned through trial and error over the years:
Change your sandpaper before it dies completely. Dull paper burnishes instead of cutting, leaving a slick surface that primer won’t stick to properly. If you’re working harder for the same results, grab fresh paper.
Dust control matters. A shop vac nearby helps enormously. Plastic sheeting over doorways keeps the white powder from coating your entire house. Trust me on this one – I learned the hard way during my first bathroom renovation.
And patience – patience is the real secret. Sand in stages. Check often. Touch up where needed. A few extra minutes with the sandpaper saves you from staring at imperfections in your paint job for years.
